Exploring Old Dhaka: A Journey Through Time and Flavors

Old Dhaka, the historic core of Bangladesh’s bustling capital, is more than just a place — it’s an experience. With its labyrinth of narrow streets, bustling markets, and an endless array of historical treasures, Old Dhaka invites you to step into a world where the past and present coexist. Whether you’re drawn by its rich culture, iconic landmarks, or tantalizing cuisine, a trip to Old Dhaka is a sensory feast that lingers long after you leave.

Start Your Day: The Magic of Bakarkhani and Tea

Your journey begins in the early hours when the aroma of freshly baked Bakarkhani fills the streets. This iconic bread is a relic of the Mughal era, known for its flaky layers, buttery texture, and slightly sweet flavor.

Imagine yourself in Narinda or Murgitola, standing amidst the locals at a humble roadside bakery. The baker’s hands expertly fold and roll the dough, each Bakarkhani a testament to generations-old techniques. Pair this with a cup of spiced black tea served in traditional clay cups, and you have the perfect breakfast to fuel your adventure.

Did You Know? The origins of Bakarkhani trace back to the tragic love story of a Mughal general, Aga Bakar, and Khani Begum. This bread was allegedly created in her memory.

A Stroll Through History: Landmarks That Tell a Story

Old Dhaka is a historian’s playground, brimming with structures that narrate centuries of stories. Let’s dive into some must-visit spots:

1. Ahsan Manzil (Pink Palace)

Perched beside the Buriganga River, Ahsan Manzil once served as the luxurious residence of Dhaka’s Nawabs. Today, it stands as a museum, allowing visitors to peek into the opulent lifestyle of the city’s aristocracy during the colonial era.

As you wander through its grand halls, the intricate stucco work and European-style furniture transport you to a time of grandeur. Climb to the rooftop for sweeping views of the Buriganga, where boats glide along the water as they have for centuries.

Pro Tip: Visit during the late afternoon for stunning photos as the setting sun casts a golden glow on the pink façade.

2. Lalbagh Fort: A Tale of Incompleteness

This 17th-century Mughal fort is as enigmatic as it is beautiful. Walk through the sprawling grounds, imagining life during its construction under Subahdar Muhammad Azam Shah.

The tranquil gardens contrast with the fort’s turbulent history, which includes battles, plagues, and the heartbreak of never being completed. Be sure to explore the mosque, the Diwan-i-Aam, and the tomb of Pari Bibi, which exude an aura of mystery and beauty.

Insider Experience: Early mornings or weekdays are the best times to explore without the crowds.

Lunch Like a Local: Biryani Love

After a morning of exploration, your appetite will be more than ready for Old Dhaka’s culinary crown jewel: Biryani. Forget everything you know about this dish until you try the Dhaka version, where delicate basmati rice meets tender meat, cooked with aromatic spices that permeate every bite.

• Haji Biryani: The simplicity of this dish is its strength. Cooked in mustard oil, the flavors are light yet unforgettable.
• Nanna Biryani: Offers Kacchi Biryani (a mix of rice and marinated meat cooked together), which boasts bold spices and tender goat meat.
• Hanif Biryani: Known for its rich, smoky aroma.

Pair your meal with Borhani, a tangy yogurt drink spiced with mint and cumin, which helps balance the richness of the meal.

A Traveler’s Note: Be prepared for queues, especially during lunchtime. The wait is worth every bite!

Afternoon by the Buriganga: River Life Unfiltered

Post-lunch, take a short rickshaw ride to Sadarghat, the bustling gateway to the Buriganga River. Here, life flows in chaotic harmony — boatmen navigate wooden dinghies, traders haggle over goods, and the water sparkles under the afternoon sun.

Hop on a small boat for a leisurely ride. For just a few hundred taka, you can glide along the river, watching Old Dhaka’s vibrant life unfold on its shores.

Pro Tip: Don’t just stay on the boat; explore the other side at Keraniganj, a hub for artisanal boat-making and hidden culinary gems.

Tea, Snacks, and Stories: Evening in Old Dhaka

Evenings in Old Dhaka come alive with the chatter of locals and the irresistible scent of street food. Take a break at one of the city’s famous tea stalls:

• Zafrani Tandoori Tea: A unique twist where tea is infused with smoky flavors from a tandoor.
• Shahi Sultani Tea: Indulge in luxurious blends like saffron-infused or chocolate tea.

Pair your tea with snacks like crispy samosas, spicy pakoras, or even a plate of freshly fried kebabs from the iconic Beauty Boarding. This historic guesthouse-turned-restaurant offers more than just food — it’s a slice of literary and cultural history, having hosted some of Bangladesh’s most prominent poets and writers.

A Sweet Goodbye: The Paan Experience

End your day on a sweet note with Paan, a betel leaf snack that comes in endless varieties. Try the exotic “Agun Paan,” which literally ignites in your mouth, or stick to classic sweet Paan for a milder experience.

The vibrant paan stalls, often adorned with colorful lights, are as much a part of Old Dhaka’s charm as the snack itself.

Shopping and Souvenirs: Take a Piece of Old Dhaka Home

Old Dhaka’s bustling markets are a paradise for anyone looking to immerse themselves in its vibrant culture. Whether you’re hunting for unique souvenirs, colorful textiles, or handmade treasures, these marketplaces are brimming with stories and history.

1. Chawk Bazaar: A Food Lover’s Delight

Chawk Bazaar is one of the oldest markets in Dhaka and a sensory overload of colors, sounds, and aromas. It’s particularly famous during Ramadan, when the streets transform into a culinary carnival offering delicacies like kebabs, stuffed naan, and doi bora (lentil dumplings in yogurt).

Outside the Ramadan festivities, the market is still a treasure trove for spices, antiques, and traditional sweets like rosh malai and sandesh. Vendors enthusiastically describe their products, making every purchase an interactive cultural exchange.

2. Shakhari Bazaar: Where Tradition Comes Alive

Shakhari Bazaar, often called the bangle street, is a narrow lane lined with shops that have existed for generations. Here, you can watch artisans craft stunning jewelry and bangles from materials like conch shells and metal.

Beyond jewelry, the bazaar is also a hub for traditional sarees, intricate ornaments, and even puja (Hindu prayer) items. The colorful displays and intricate designs make this place a visual delight.

Insider Experience:
If you’re lucky, shop owners might invite you to watch them work. Seeing a bangle being shaped, painted, and polished is a fascinating experience that adds a personal connection to your purchase.

3. Islampur: A Textile Wonderland

For fabric enthusiasts, Islampur is a dream destination. From luxurious silk to affordable cotton, this market offers a wide variety of textiles. Whether you’re looking for vibrant patterns or subtle tones, the options are endless.

Pro Tip: Tailors in Old Dhaka are known for their skills. You can buy fabric and have it stitched into a custom outfit within a day or two!

Travel Tips for Old Dhaka

Old Dhaka is an incredible destination, but its dense streets and lively atmosphere require a bit of preparation. Here are some practical tips to make your trip smooth and enjoyable:

1. Best Time to Visit: Winter for Comfort

Old Dhaka’s charm can be enjoyed year-round, but winter (November to February) is the ideal time. The cooler temperatures make it easier to explore the narrow streets, markets, and historical sites without getting exhausted.

During winter, festivals like Christmas, New Year, and local weddings often add to the vibrancy. However, if you visit during Ramadan, you’ll witness an unparalleled culinary and cultural spectacle at places like Chawk Bazaar.

2. Transportation: Navigating the Narrow Streets

Getting around Old Dhaka can be an adventure in itself. The roads are often too narrow and crowded for cars, so rickshaws are the most reliable and authentic mode of transport. These colorful vehicles are everywhere, and the drivers know the labyrinthine streets like the back of their hands.

• Tips for Rickshaw Rides: Negotiate fares beforehand and keep small notes handy for payment.
• For Longer Distances: If you’re traveling from New Dhaka, consider a CNG (auto-rickshaw) or a boat ride along the Buriganga River for a scenic approach.

3. Dress and Etiquette: Respect the Culture

Old Dhaka is traditional, and dressing modestly shows respect for the local culture. Comfortable clothing and sturdy shoes are a must, given the amount of walking involved.

Always greet shopkeepers and locals with a smile — a little politeness goes a long way. If you’re photographing people or places, ask for permission, especially in residential or religious areas.

4. Safety: Staying Alert

Old Dhaka is safe and welcoming, but its crowded streets can be overwhelming for first-timers. Keep an eye on your belongings, particularly in busy markets like Chawk Bazaar.

• Travel in Groups: If you’re new to the area, traveling with a guide or local friend can make your experience more enjoyable and less intimidating.
• Stay Hydrated: Carry a water bottle, especially if you’re visiting during warmer months.

5. Budgeting: Affordable Adventures

One of the best things about Old Dhaka is how budget-friendly it is. A sumptuous meal of Haji Biryani, a boat ride on the Buriganga, and a few handmade souvenirs can all be enjoyed for a very reasonable cost.

However, don’t hesitate to bargain in markets — it’s part of the shopping culture. Vendors expect it and often enjoy the exchange as much as the sale itself!

Conclusion: 

Old Dhaka isn’t just a place to see — it’s a place to feel. Its vibrant streets, rich history, and unmatched culinary experiences leave an indelible mark on every traveler. As you navigate its chaos, you’ll discover its charm, its people, and its stories, making you fall in love with this timeless city.

So what are you waiting for? Dive into the heart of Dhaka and create memories you’ll cherish forever.